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SYSTEM RESTORE AND UNEXPECTED UNINSTALLATION

Sometimes a System Restore operation has the unintended consequence of messing up a program you recently installed.  The net effect is that a program may appear to be installed but is missing vital files that were “unhooked” by the System Restore operation. Because you probably ran System Restore to recover from a disaster, I don’t recommend undoing the System Restore.   Instead, what you need to do is reinstall the program that’s screwing up. Doing so reconnects the items that System Restore disconnected.
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WHICH WINDOWS VERSION?

Windows may seem like one operating system, but it has several layers. Beyond the Home, Pro, Enterprise, and other versions, Windows comes in two flavors: 32-bit and 64-bit. The installed version depends on the PC’s hardware as well as on your own preferences during installation. This detail is important to know when obtaining new software, because some programs are written specifically as 32-bit or 64- bit flavors. To determine which Windows version is installed on the PC, press the Win+Break keyboard combination. If the Break key isn’t available on the keyboard, tap the Windows key and type System. Choose the System Control Panel item from the search results. The System window shows information about Windows, including the version and whether it’s 32-bit or 64-bit.  The version number is found below the Windows Edition heading in the System window. The flavor is found under the System heading, labeled System Type.

PRINTING WINDOWS

The Print Screen (or PrtSc) key on the PC’s keyboard once actually printed the text on the screen. Called a screen dump, after you pressed that Print Screen key, every character on the screen spewed out of the printer, like a snapshot. This feature has been lost since the PC went graphical in the early 1990s. Today, the Print Screen key still functions, though it doesn’t deal directly with a printer. When you press the key, a snapshot of the desktop is taken. The graphical image is stored in the Windows clipboard, and you can paste it into any document that accepts graphics.  The Alt+Print Screen keyboard shortcut works similarly, but takes a snapshot of only the current window. If you really want to print the screen, you can press the Print Screen key, paste the image into a graphics program, such as Paint, and then print the image from that program.

USE THE POWER BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE COMPUTER

One option you can configure in the Power Options dialog box is what happens when the computer is on and you punch the power button. Normally, you use the button to turn on the PC and then ignore the button thereafter. But the power button’s function can be programmed. In the Power Options dialog box, choose Power Buttons and Lid, Power Button Action, and then Setting. Click the link to set what the power button does when you punch it. For example, to disable the power button, choose Do Nothing. For a laptop or PC connected to a UPS, two options are available: Plugged In or On Battery. Set the power button’s function for both conditions You can also set the function for the sleep button, though few computers these days have a sleep button.

POWERFUL TERMS

Like most technology, PC power management is rife with specific terms and names for its modes of operation. Here’s the shortlist: hibernation: In this mode, the computer’s current state is saved and the PC turns itself off. When you turn on the system again, the saved state is restored and you can continue working. hybrid sleep: A cross between hibernation and sleep, this mode saves data for a fast recovery but doesn’t quite turn off the computer. This mode is enabled by default in Windows 10. sleep mode: In sleep mode, the computer slows down to save energy. Certain peripherals are disabled and the processor enters a low- power mode, but the entire system isn’t shutdown. suspend: This is another name for hibernate.

DISK DRIVE SHOPPING

The number-one thing I look for in a new hard drive is capacity. You don’t want to undercut storage, especially before you’ve stored anything on the drive. For a second internal hard drive, I recommend a capacity at least that of the original hard drive. Otherwise, get as much storage as you can afford. Keep in mind that the true cost is measured by dollars-per-gigabyte.  For example, a 2,000GB (2TB) drive that costs $100 is a better value than a 1,000GB (1TB) drive that cost $70. The first drive is 5 cents per GB, the second is 7 cents per GB. Other technical details hover around a hard drive purchase like moons around Jupiter: drive speed (relative to HDDs only), buffers and caches, and transfer times. And keep in mind that you want an internal drive, which might also be called a “loose” drive. Finally, drives don’t come with cables. If you’re adding a new drive, ensure that it comes with a SATA cable. If not, buy one.

BUYING REPLACEMENT PARTS

Gone are the days when most major cities featured computer parts stores. Cavernous retail, big-box stores like Circuit City and Fry’s are rare these days. Instead, you must turn to the Internet to locate parts, especially highly specialized parts like power supplies and memory. The variety of online stores is rich and the selection wide, but unlike at the brick-and-mortar stores, you must either pay for overnight shipping or wait until the part arrives. Ensure that you review the refund-and-return policy. Some items, such as memory, might be returnable. The warranty is also something you must check. A 90-day warranty is okay for electronics; if they fail, it happens quickly, so even a 30- days warranty is okay in some situations. Tech support for replacement parts is limited to non-existent. Most of these places assume that you know what you’re doing when you buy a loose hard drive or an expansion card.